Review: Creative staging elevates 'The Recipe' at La Jolla Playhouse
- Anita W. Harris
- 10 minutes ago
- 4 min read
A commissioned work by Tony-nominated playwright Claudia Shear, La Jolla Playhouse’s world premiere of “The Recipe” tells the story of how rebellious Pasadena native Julia McWilliams became masterful French cook Julia Child, based on Bob Spitz’s 2012 book “Dearie.”
Beginning with her time at Smith College, the two-act play covers Julia’s secretarial work for the Office of Strategic Services (OSS); her posting in Ceylon where she meets husband Paul Child; and their subsequent stationing in Paris, where Julia begins mastering the art of French cooking — the name of the seminal book she writes with friends Simca and Louise.
Though she is known as a cookbook author and 1960s television chef — and subject of the popular 2009 film “Julie & Julia” — many may not know Child’s backstory. Shear provides that here in the style of a biopic, documenting the ups and downs of Julia’s journey in finding focus for her considerable energy by learning to cook and writing the cookbook.
Child’s own 2006 autobiography “My Life in France” covers much of the same, written in the delightful style that Shear captures here in Julia’s character — how she is ironic about her own tall height, how she likes to be with people, how she’s always up for a cocktail party.
However, while charming, “The Recipe” doesn’t go beyond, or deeper than, the available material of Child’s life, especially in the first act, which consists of a series of scenes leading up to her tasting of a simple “fish on a dish” in France that changes her life, signaled by whirling waiters and a bell-tone of sudden realization.
While somewhat cheesy in making its point, that scene is just one example of how director Lisa Peterson takes Shear’s straightforward script and creates an enchanting stage experience, whipping up an elegant and airy soufflé from a basic egg.
The actors move fluidly on stage with the help of choreographer David Neumann, especially during cooking scenes, and a moveable set design by Rachel Hauck allows rapid scene changes in the first act and visually pleasing kitchen with wall of copper pots in the second, all enhanced by Ben Stanton’s lighting.
Costuming by Linda Cho also allows quick changes and adds to the visual pleasure, especially in Julia’s clothing, while original music by André Pluess creates a transporting aural dimension.
The acting is also first rate by the entire cast. Christina Kirk brings to life Julia’s slightly awkward, open demeanor and quick-witted, forthright speech in a lilting voice. Norbert Leo Butz is an excellent complement as husband Paul, making his character’s love and support for his wife naturally believable and palpable, even during her more trying moments learning to cook and developing recipes.
More such tension as the story unfolds would add interest, especially in the first act. Even though Julia often expresses doubts about her trajectory, for instance, we don’t necessarily feel them as internal conflict. And though Paul is with someone else when he meets Julia, his transition to becoming her husband is fairly seamless, romantic but without drama.
A subsequent scene with Julia, Paul and Julia’s father Mr. McWilliams (Michael Park) back in Pasadena is more compelling. We feel Julia’s limit in challenging her brusque father along with Paul’s strength in defending their decision to live in Paris rather than stay and work for McWilliams. One wishes more scenes were conflict-driven like this.
Shear said in an interview that she was “not a particularly major fan” of Julia Child when she was commissioned to write the play, but after reading biographies became inspired by the pivotal moment Julia tasted that fish in France. While the play finds humor and grace in key scenes before and after that moment, if the script had gone further under the surface of Julia’s character, we might feel more of her experiences rather than just observe them.
Still, Peterson’s well-paced direction and a talented cast and crew make “The Recipe” an enjoyable theatrical experience, with Shear’s writing bringing welcome attention to a spirited and pioneering woman who not only taught America to cook French food but showed how being open to epiphanies from unlikely sources, and running with your passion despite all doubt, might be a recipe for fulfillment.
“The Recipe” continues through March 22 at La Jolla Playhouse’s Potiker Theatre, 2910 La Jolla Village Dr., La Jolla, with shows Tuesdays through Fridays at 7:30 p.m., Saturdays at 2 p.m. and 8 p.m., and Sundays at 1 p.m. and 7 p.m. For tickets and information, call the box office at 858-550-1010 or visit LaJollaPlayhouse.org. Run time is 2 hours and 45 minutes, including intermission.
For a pre-theatre dining experience with a menu inspired by “The Recipe,” consider the recently opened Dora Ristorante at 9165 Theatre District Dr., La Jolla, near the La Jolla Playhouse.